*****Take your yeast out of the fridge now and smack it. Make sure you broke the little packet inside of it. Set it on your kitchen counter and allow it to swell for the next 4 hours******
1. Put your steeping grains into a grain steeping bag, tie the bag to the middle of your big spoon.
2. Put 3 gallons of water into your stock pot. Lay the spoon with the grain bag across the stock pot so that the grains are suspended into the water but are not touching the bottom of the pot.
3. Heat the water to 160*F. Bob the grains up and down occasionally like you would with a tea bag.
4. When the water reaches the desired temperature, shut off your stove and leave the grains in place to steep. Allow the grains to steep for 15 mins.
5. Lift the grains out of the water (from now on it will be called wort) and allow them to drain into the stock pot. DO NOT squeeze or press the grain bag, this will produce proteins and harsh flavors that you do not want in your beer.
6. Add the first big bag of extract (3 lb bag of Golden Light DME) now. Stir until all the clumps are dissolved into the wort.
7. Turn the stove back on and bring to a rolling boil. Set a timer for 60 minutes when it starts boiling and also add your first (bittering) hop addition (.5 oz Northern Brewer). Be careful to add the hops slowly and stir vigorously to reduce your risk of a boil over. It might be a good idea to turn the heat down for this part.
8. At 15 minutes (meaning 45 minutes into the boil, 15 minutes remaining) add your 2nd (flavor) hop addition (.5 oz Cascade). If you are adding whirl floc, Irish moss or 1/4 tsp. yeast nutrient do so now.
Also add the rest of your extract at this point (the other 3 lb bag of Golden Light DME).
9. At 0 minutes your timer should go off, time to shut off the burner.
*****From this point onward EVERYTHING that touches your beer MUST BE SANITIZED******
- I like to fill up a 5 gal. bucket with water and 1 oz. of sanitizer for this purpose-
10. Chill your wort to 68*F as rapidly as possible while it is still in the kettle. This can be achieved with a wort chiller, or an ice bath in your sink.
11. Gently pour your wort into your primary fermenter being careful to leave as much of the sludge at the bottom in your kettle as possible. If you have our deluxe kit, your primary fermenter is your 6.5 gallon bucket with the spigot attached. I like to make sure the spigot attachment is sealed properly and water tight before I add my wort to it.
Also, make sure the spigot is in the CLOSED position!
12. Top your beer up to 5 gallons with more water. Using cold, clean water can help you finish chilling the wort to the ideal 68*F before adding your yeast (For best results, do not add yeast until wort temp is at least within 10 degrees of 68*F. The closer to 68*F, the better).
13. Put your unopened yeast pack into your bucket of sanitizer. Place your sanitized hydrometer into your wort and take an original gravity reading. There are three units of measurement on the hydrometer, you want to be looking at the smallest one.
14. Vigorously stir your wort to introduce as much oxygen as possible into the wort. This is the ONLY time you want to get oxygen in your beer.
15. Cut a corner off of the top of your yeast pouch with a pair of sanitized scissors and pour the yeast into your wort.
16. Seal the top of your fermenter and put an airlock partially filled with sanitizer into the hole on top.
17. Pace the floor anxiously for the next 10-14 days while your beer goes through primary fermentation.
18. When the airlock stops bubbling and the yeast cake has dropped to the bottom, remove the lid and take a reading with your hydrometer.
19. If you have reached your desired final gravity (give or take a couple points) you are ready to rack it over into your secondary fermenter.
20. If you are using our deluxe kit, the 5 gallon plastic carboy is your secondary. As always, everything MUST be sanitized.
21. Use your auto-siphon to gently rack the beer into your secondary fermenter, leaving as much of the trub (sediment) behind as possible.
22. Seal the fermenter and go back to pacing the floor for another 7-10 days. Ideally, brew another beer now so the wait is less excruciating next time.
23. Now you are ready to bottle. Boil 5 ounces of priming sugar in 2 cups of water and stir it to dissolve. Allow the solution to cool and gently pour it into your bottling bucket. Remember, everything must be sanitized.
24. Rack your beer into your bottling bucket so that the beer mixes with the priming solution evenly. If you are using our deluxe kit, your bottling bucket is the 6.5 gallon bucket w/ the spigot attached that you used for primary fermentation.
25. Attach one end of a tube to your spigot and the other end to your bottling cane.
26. Sanitize every bottle and all of your caps. DO NOT USE DETERGENT if you run your bottles through your dishwasher on the sanitary cycle.
27. Put your bottling cane into a bottle so that the tip is depressed against the bottom of the bottle.
28. When the beer reaches the very top of the bottle, pull the cane out and set the bottle aside to be capped.
29. Repeat this step 45-50 more times, then cap the bottles.
30. DO NOT REFRIGERATE YOUR BOTTLES. They will not carbonate.
31. Continue to pace the floor for 10-14 days. Ideally, put your next beer into secondary and brew another beer so the wait is even less excruciating next time.
32. Refrigerate a couple of bottles.
33. Open and enjoy. Repeat as necessary.
34. Brew more beer. Repeat as necessary.
We hope this helps, and have fun on your brew day! Remember, it wouldn’t be home brewing without a mishap, so don’t freak out if you forget something or make a mistake. It happens to everyone, and you are likely to still end up with a mighty fine beer. Cheers!