We took our base recipe for Perfectly Hazy and mixed it up with hops from the Southern Hemisphere: Galaxy and Nelson Sauvin. These are two of the most sought after, pungent hops on the planet, and when they come together, a beautiful bouquet of intense citrus, tropical fruit and gooseberry is created. These hops are tough to acquire most of the year, so this is a limited edition kit.
Style : Double Dry-Hopped New England-style India Pale Ale
Steeping Grains : Oat Malt, 2-Row
Extracts : Pilsen Light, Bavarian Wheat
Hops : Nelson Sauvin and Galaxy
Yeast : Omega Cosmic Punch Or Omega British V or WY1318 London Ale III or Safale S-04
2 oz Nelson at 0 mins (Let steep for ~20 mins at the end of the boil)
1 oz Galaxy at 0 mins (Let steep for ~20 mins at the end of the boil)
First Dry Hop:
1 oz Galaxy added directly to primary fermenter on day 1 or 2 of fermentation.
1 oz Nelson added directly to primary fermenter on day 1 or 2 of fermentation.
Second Dry Hop:
2 oz Galaxy in Dry Hop (3-5 days before bottling/kegging)
1 oz Nelson in Dry Hop (3-5 days before bottling/kegging)
Target Original Gravity : 1.059-1.063
Target Final Gravity : 1.012-1.016
Target IBUs : 35
Color : 7 SRM
Target ABV : 6.0-6.5%
Extract Brewing Directions for DDH Perfectly Hazy IPA
*****Take your yeast out of the fridge now and smack it. Make sure you broke the little packet inside of it. Set it on your kitchen counter and allow it to swell for the next 4 hours******
1. Put your steeping grains into a grain steeping bag, tie the bag to the middle of your big spoon.
2. Put 3 gallons of water into your stock pot. Lay the spoon with the grain bag across the stock pot so that the grains are suspended into the water but are not touching the bottom of the pot.
3. Heat the water to 160*F. Bob the grains up and down occasionally like you would with a tea bag.
4. When the water reaches the desired temperature, shut off your stove and leave the grains in place to steep. Allow the grains to steep for 20 mins.
5. Lift the grains out of the water (from now on it will be called wort) and allow them to drain into the stock pot. DO NOT squeeze or press the grain bag, this will produce harsh flavors that you do not want in your beer.
6. Add the small bag of extract and about half of the large bag of Pilsen Light (save the remainder of the extract for the last 15 minutes of the boil) now while the heat is off. Stir until all of the clumps are dissolved into the wort.
7. Turn the stove back on and bring to a rolling boil. Set a timer for 30 minutes when it starts boiling. This recipe calls for a shorter boil time because we are not looking for too much hop bitterness. Also, the longer we boil, the darker the wort will get, which is not the goal in NEIPAs. We are looking for a bright, yellow-orange color, and a shorter boil helps to achieve this.
8. At 15 minutes, add the remainder of your Dried Malt Extract. If you are adding 1/2 tsp. of yeast nutrient and/or whirlfloc, do so now.
9. At 0 minutes your timer should go off. Turn off the flame and add the flavor/aroma hop addition (2 oz Nelson, 1 oz Galaxy). Allow the hops to steep in the hot wort for 20 minutes before proceeding to the next step. This is known as a hop stand and is used to maximize the hops aroma and flavor while minimizing bitterness.
*****From this point onward EVERYTHING that touches your beer MUST BE SANITIZED******
- I like to fill up a 5 gal. bucket with water and 1 oz. of sanitizer for this purpose-
10. Chill your wort to 68*F as rapidly as possible while it is still in the kettle. This can be achieved with a wort chiller, or an ice bath in your sink.
11. Gently pour your wort into your primary fermenter being careful to leave as much of the sludge at the bottom in your kettle as possible. If you have our deluxe kit, your primary fermenter is your 6.5 gallon bucket with the spigot attached. I like to make sure the spigot attachment is sealed properly and water tight before I add my wort to it.
Also, make sure the spigot is in the CLOSED position!
12. Top your beer up to 5 gallons with more water. Using cold, clean water can help you finish chilling the wort to the ideal 68*F before adding your yeast (For best results, do not add yeast until wort temp is at least within 10 degrees of 68*F. The closer to 68*F, the better).
13. Put your unopened yeast pack into your bucket of sanitizer. Place your sanitized hydrometer into your wort and take an original gravity reading. There are three units of measurement on the hydrometer, you want to be looking at the smallest one (Specific Gravity).
14. Vigorously stir your wort to introduce as much oxygen as possible into the wort. This is the ONLY time you want to get oxygen in your beer. New England IPAs are especially prone to oxidation, so it is important to be gentle with your beer once it has started fermenting.
15. Cut a corner off of the top of your yeast pouch with a pair of sanitized scissors and pour the yeast into your wort.
16. Seal the top of your fermenter and put an airlock partially filled with sanitizer into the hole on top. You should start to see active fermentation begin within 24-48 hours.
17. On day 1 or 2 of fermentation (1 or 2 days after brewing the beer and adding the yeast), open the top of the fermenter and dump in 1 ounce of Galaxy hops and 1 ounce of Nelson. Place the lid back on the fermenter and give the beer another 7 days or so to finish with fermentation.
18. When the airlock stops bubbling and the yeast cake has dropped to the bottom, remove the lid and take a reading with your hydrometer.
19. If you have reached your desired final gravity (give or take a couple points) you are ready to rack it over into your secondary fermenter. Some brewers prefer not to move the beer to a secondary vessel. This is a matter of personal preference. If you prefer to not move your beer to secondary, just add your second round of dry hops directly to the primary 3-5 days before you plan to bottle or keg. We recommend bagging this dry hop addition so less hop material will end up in the bottles.
20. If you are using our deluxe kit, the 5 gallon carboy is your secondary. As always, everything MUST be sanitized.
21. Use your auto-siphon to gently rack the beer into your secondary fermenter, leaving as much of the trub behind as possible.
This is also when you should add your second dry hop addition. Put 2 ounces of Galaxy and 1 ounce of Nelson into a sanitized muslin hop bag and add them to the carboy. I prefer to have the dry hops in the carboy before I transfer the beer in.
22. Seal the fermenter and go back to pacing the floor for another 5 days. Ideally, brew another beer now so the wait is less excruciating next time.
23. Now you are ready to bottle. Boil 5 ounces of priming sugar in 2 cups of water and stir it to dissolve. Allow the solution to cool and gently pour it into your bottling bucket. Remember, everything must be sanitized.
24. Rack your beer into your bottling bucket so that the beer mixes with the priming solution evenly. If you are using our deluxe kit, your bottling bucket is the 6.5 gallon bucket w/ the spigot attached that you used for primary fermentation.
25. Attach one end of a tube to your spigot and the other end to your bottling cane.
26. Sanitize every bottle and all of your caps. DO NOT USE DETERGENT if you run your bottles through your dishwasher on the sanitary cycle.
27. Put your bottling cane into a bottle so that the tip is depressed against the bottom of the bottle.
28. When the beer reaches the very top of the bottle, pull the cane out and set the bottle aside to be capped.
29. Repeat this step 45-50 more times, then cap the bottles.
30. DO NOT REFRIGERATE YOUR BOTTLES. They will not carbonate.
31. Continue to pace the floor for 10-14 days. Ideally, put your next beer into secondary and brew another beer so the wait is even less excruciating next time.
32. Refrigerate a couple of bottles.
33. Open and enjoy. Repeat as necessary.
34. Brew more beer. Repeat as necessary.
We hope this helps, and have fun on your brew day! Remember, it wouldn’t be home brewing without a mishap, so don’t freak out if you forget something or make a mistake. It happens to everyone, and you are likely to still end up with a mighty fine beer. Cheers!